When choosing earrings, besides careful examination of the front side, quality of processing and quality of fastening of stones, you should pay attention to no less important part of the jewelry – the lock. In this article we will tell you about the main types and kinds of jewelry locks.
A jewelry lock is a technical detail that should not only function properly, but also correspond to the beauty of the jewelry. The earrings use a variety of locks. The responsibility for their appearance can be safely passed on the shoulders of designers, but the technical side should be considered more attentively. It depends on the comfort of using the earrings and the reliability of the lock itself.
Pousseta is also a “jeweler’s nail”. This lock is the least visible and the strongest fixing of the earring in the ear. The pin, which is pushed into the lobe, on one side is a decorative part of the jewelry, i.e. the earring itself. On the other is a tapered rounded end with a transverse groove or thread. This is where the clamp of the lock is fixed. The threaded clip is more convenient, because it allows you to freely adjust the degree of pressure of the earring on the earlobe.
The decorative part of the pousset may have the most different appearance – from a small stone, inserted in the front part of the pin, to a complex dangling design. The treatment of the tapered end of the pousset should be very accurate, so that the lobe is not injured when putting on or taking off the earring.
Earrings with a French lock
A spring loop, a shackle that slips into the ear and holds the earring due to its shape. The earring is secured with a small fastener (hook or loop) to hold the lower part of the wishbone and prevent the earring from accidentally falling out of the ear. A wishbone with a clasp is called a classic or French lock. People who wear earrings of such design can avoid the uncomfortable sensation of pressing too hard on an earlobe. True, the French lock shackle requires delicate handling, because it can be deformed even with a little effort. But it can just as easily be reshaped in any jewellery workshop.
A short, straight or nearly straight shackle with a clasp is called a pin lock. This option is suitable for earrings of rounded or other symmetrical shape.
Slightly different principle of fastening earrings in the form of rings (type “congo”). The earring is unbent, a thin shank which continues the shape of the ring is slipped into the ear, and when the earring returns to its original shape, enters the hollow tube of the ring.
A chain that slips into the ear and holds the earring in place by the weight and length of the chain itself looks very exquisite. This lock can be attributed to the varieties of the loop without a clasp, which has obvious advantages – the earring with a chain holds more securely, and the lock itself does not deform, because it does not have a rigid shape.
A pendant is an element of jewelry or haberdashery lock in the form of a foot. The bottom part of the stud is movably fastened to the post of the lock, and in its upper part there is a hole for fixation of a rod, which is inserted into the ear.
English lock on earrings
The English lock (pendant “Bo”) is one of the most popular designs of this type. It is characterized by a very high degree of reliability and is used in expensive jewelry. The peculiarity of the English lock is the flat shape of its stud. Because of its width, the earrings may not fit if the hole in the ear is too narrow.
Earrings with Italian lock
The Italian lock (“Omega”) is a combination of the pusset and the clip mechanism. A pin, rigidly attached to the earring, is inserted in the ear. The upper part of the clip is put on it, which tightly holds the earring to the lobe by means of a spring mechanism. Such double fixation allows to hold big and heavy earrings without an excessive load on the ear hole.
Basic requirements for jewelry locks
For the earrings to be comfortable to wear, the lock must meet the following requirements:
- it must be easy and reliable to use, durable, proportionate to the earring and earlobe, and must not disturb the body areas in contact with it,
- the hook (nail) must be 1,0-1,3 mm thick,
- the distance from the base of the earring to the pendant or pusset fixed in the closed position should be approximately 5.5 mm (the average thickness of the earlobe), and the total length of about 7.5-9 mm
- The tip should not be sharp, and it should not have any nicks that could scratch the ear – everything should be well polished.
Thus, when choosing earrings, you should not only carefully examine the front side, the quality of processing the jewelry, the quality of setting stones (if any), but also pay attention to an equally important part – the lock.